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Inferno ~ Montreal, Quebec ***CLOSED***


OK - as promised (later than initially stated), let's get those Rude Dante reviews out there. Rude Dante - take it away!

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As a follower and kindred spirit of the RJG, one can only imagine my delight in having a couple weeks in Montreal. At first I had no concept of the place - other than it is a long flight on a little plane to get there. And as my arrival was in April, it is considerably colder than my home in the west. But on to the dining.

There is a remarkably strong Italian community in Montreal (ed: Having been in 2004, and exploring the area ourselves, we can vouch for this). It's been there forever, but some of it is rather new and actively evolving & redefining itself.

(Rue Dante @ Rue Saint Dominique) Stopped in after having my first visit (quite enjoyable) to the well-known Pizzeria Napoletana further down Rue Dante (more on this place later). Business travel being what it is, I opted for a spot at the bar. I was hungry but not famished, and had the expectation that a place named "Inferno" would be home to diavalo or at least a stout vodka sauce. Imagine my surprise to find little or no red sauce, no pizza, a compact little menu with daily butcher & seafood choices, and a very casual, relaxed feel. Not your traditional red check tablecloth locale.


My first visit I sat at the bar and let them guide me to the butcher's choice. This was a brazed pork shank with an array of amazing vegetables and a light broth - no real sauce. Truly an amazing dish, big enough to stand on its own (no salad or soup required), worthy of a picture (above). Was not hungry for desert, but as it was an early dinner, I thought I might have a hankering later. They sent me out with a fine tiramisu to go in one of the house ramekins (not their normal practice); it was delicious later in the hotel room as I watched NHL playoffs in Canada (a whole 'nuther experience). Resolved on the spot to return the dish the following week and return for round 2.

My second visit - one week later - I showed up hungry. I mean REALLY hungry! Had a glass of wine to start while I perused the menu - broadly updated just one week later - and I landed on one of their specialties. Leg of duck confit with risotto. As I was hungry (did I mention this already?), I started with a grilled escarole salad with Gorgonzola, apples, walnuts and pancetta. As before, they serve everything with very solid bread - sourdough baguette if I'm not mistaken. Salad was rock solid, but the duck and risotto were spectacular! (Evidence in photo below)

Only minor challenge was wine selection: seemed to be better by the bottle, less interesting by the glass. As a solo traveler, bottles are seldom an option. Also, closed Sunday - Monday as is traditional.

Wrapping up (Inferno): on par with Al Dente in Boston, better than Panzano in Denver. Not a point of comparison for the mama-pappa dive joints that I also love (Pagliucca, Patsy's (both Denver), Pietro's (Dallas) (ed: All sadly closed now) , but a top 5- or 10- Italian restaurant in my catalog.

- Rude Dante review

Comments

Rude Dante said…
Tiny editorial... Pagliuca's (Boston) still thrives as of my last visit - and still pours chianti, chilled, from the fridge.

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